A fake 5105 is a replica of the watch sold under reference number 5105. Because several factories reuse that number, two listings for a fake 5105 can differ in case shape, dial print, movement and finishing, so the number alone tells you very little. The reliable approach is to compare the watch against the genuine reference point by point instead of trusting the label in the listing.
What the 5105 reference actually identifies
A reference number in watchmaking is a catalog code. It bundles a specific case size and material, a dial variant, a hand set and a movement into one item a dealer can order. When people search for a fake 5105, they are usually chasing one specific configuration rather than a whole model family.
Replica factories rarely copy a reference line by line. They copy a popular look and stamp a number on it. If a listing shows a fake 5105 with the wrong case thickness, a bezel finish that does not match, or a date window in the wrong spot, the seller is using the number as a hook.
Before you compare anything, write down three facts about the genuine reference: case diameter and thickness, movement type and power reserve, and dial layout (marker shape, date position, sub-dial placement). Nearly every flaw you find later is a mismatch against one of those three.
Why two fake 5105 watches can be completely different
Replica production is not one product. It is a ladder of tiers, and the same reference number appears at every rung.
- Entry tier. Generic case, flat printed markers, mineral glass or thin sapphire, and a basic quartz or low-grade automatic. It reads as a look-alike from arm's length and fools nobody who handles watches.
- Mid tier. Correct proportions, sapphire crystal with proper anti-reflective coating, a serviceable automatic movement, applied markers, solid end links and a clasp that closes with a clean click.
- Top tier. Factory-specific case tooling, a cloned movement with the right bridge layout and rotor engraving, dial printing done with the correct method, and a bracelet built from comparable stock.
The tier explains the price gap far better than any brand name in the listing. Ask a seller which factory built the watch and what movement is inside. Vague answers usually mean entry tier with top-tier photos.
Four places a weak fake 5105 gives itself away
- Dial and print. Look at the marker edges, the depth of the printing and the alignment of the text. Sharp, raised, evenly spaced markers are a good sign. Fuzzy edges, uneven lume fill and text that drifts toward the center are not.
- Case and lugs. Compare lug thickness, bevel angles and the transition from case to lug. A soft, rounded transition on a reference that should be crisp is the most common tell.
- Movement and caseback. Open the back if you can. Check the engraving depth, the finish on the bridges and whether the rotor text is laser-etched or stamped. Rotor noise and a rotor that spins loosely point to a cheap automatic.
- Bracelet, clasp and crown. Feel the side links for sharp edges, check the clasp stamping, then screw the crown in and out. Gritty threading or a crown that wobbles is a hard fail.
Movements you will find inside a replica 5105
Three families cover most of the market.
- Quartz. Cheap and silent, and easy to spot once you see a ticking seconds hand instead of a sweep.
- Standard automatic. Usually a mass-produced Asian caliber that runs well enough but does not match the genuine movement architecture.
- Cloned automatic. Built to mirror the genuine layout, including bridge shapes and engraving. Service costs more, but the view through the caseback holds up.
Ask for a photo of the movement with the caseback removed. If the seller refuses, treat that as your answer.
A QC checklist before you pay
- Request dated photos of the actual watch, not stock images.
- Ask for a short video showing the seconds hand, the date change and the crown action.
- Confirm the movement and the factory in writing.
- Check the dial under direct light, then in shade, to spot print and lume inconsistencies.
- Compare lug width, case thickness and bezel proportions against the genuine specs you wrote down.
- Confirm what happens if the watch arrives with a fault, and get it in writing.
Red flags in listings and sellers
- Photos of a genuine watch used for a replica listing.
- No movement details, only phrases like “best quality”.
- Pressure to pay outside a protected method.
- No return policy and no way to reach the seller after the sale.
- Claims that the copy is “identical in every way”. Nothing at this price point is.
Practical and legal notes
Counterfeit watches are illegal to import in many countries, and customs services do seize them. The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry and other trade bodies maintain reporting channels, and INTERPOL documents links between counterfeit goods and organized crime. Beyond the law, a replica carries no manufacturer warranty, and many watchmakers decline to service one. Factor that into what you are willing to spend.
Fake 5105 questions
Is a fake 5105 waterproof?
Treat any depth rating on a replica as a marketing claim, not a specification. Gaskets, case finishing and crown threading vary between batches, so keep it away from pools and showers unless a watchmaker has pressure-tested it.
Will a watchmaker service it?
Some will, many will not. Independent shops that work on Asian movements are your best option, and they often need to source parts rather than order from the original maker.
How do I compare photos fairly?
Match the angle, lighting and focal length between the replica photo and a genuine reference photo. A wide-angle close-up stretches proportions, which makes a case look thinner or larger than it is.