Short answer
A watch sold as an IWC 1002 is simple to test because the claim is narrow. Either the movement, caseback, and dial belong together and match IWC production records, or they do not. Most fakes fail on the movement engraving, a mismatched serial, or dial print that is too heavy for the period. Ask for movement photos first, then verify the serial through an IWC Extract from the Archives.
The number itself is used loosely online. Some sellers mean a caliber stamp, some mean a case reference, and some invent it to sound specific. Treat 1002 as a question, not as proof.
Prerequisites
- A 10x loupe or a phone with true macro focus
- Sharp, well-lit photos of the movement, caseback, dial, and crown
- The seller's stated reference, serial, and case size in writing
How to check a claimed IWC 1002
- Request a clear photo of the movement before you discuss price.
- Compare the caliber engraving with IWC stamping of the same era. Lettering should be crisp, evenly spaced, and cut into the metal rather than printed over a rough surface.
- Photograph the caseback and read the reference and serial numbers. Digits should be uniform in depth and aligned with the curve of the case.
- Send the serial to IWC for an Extract from the Archives. The record confirms the date of production, the reference, and the original movement type.
- Inspect the dial under magnification. Fake dials use print that sits too high, indices glued in place instead of set on feet, and a logo with the wrong stroke weight.
- Measure the case with calipers and compare the result with the reference specification. Replica cases often run 1 to 2 mm off in diameter or thickness.
- Check the crown, crystal, and hands as a set. The crown should sit flush at the correct height, the crystal should be period-correct, and the hands should match the reference in length and finish.
- Compare the complete watch with documented examples of the same reference from auction archives and established dealers.
Red flags that settle it
- The seller refuses movement photos or sends stock images.
- Serial and caseback reference do not match the archive record.
- Dial print, logo, or font differs from known examples of the reference.
- Case dimensions fall outside the published spec.
- The asking price sits far below the going rate for a genuine example in the stated condition.
If the watch fails the check
Stop the deal, keep the photos, and report the listing to the platform. If you already paid, open a dispute in writing and cite the specific mismatches. For a genuine watch that only has a replaced part, the same evidence helps you argue the price down instead of walking away.