A fake Rolex Explorer 2 1655 is a counterfeit or part-built copy of the orange-hand Explorer II that Rolex produced from 1971 to 1985. The real watch is a 39mm steel GMT with a fixed 24-hour bezel, and clean examples sell for five figures, which is why copies appear in vintage listings, at flea markets, and on auction sites. No fake 1655 is licensed or approved by Rolex, and selling one is trademark infringement in the US.
Why Does the 1655 Get Copied?
Rolex built the reference 1655 for cave explorers who spent days underground and lost track of day and night. The orange 24-hour hand and the fixed 24-hour bezel let a wearer read a second time zone or tell AM from PM at a glance. Production ran until 1985, when the 16550 replaced it.
Collectors call it the "Steve McQueen" Explorer II. Rolex never used that name, and there is no proof the actor wore a 1655. The nickname stuck, and it pushed prices up.
Strong demand plus a simple steel case makes any vintage reference a target for counterfeiters. A fake Submariner has to fool a jeweler at a bench. A fake 1655 only has to fool a buyer looking at photos.
How Do You Tell a Fake Rolex Explorer 2 1655 From a Real One?
Start with the bezel, because it is the hardest detail to fake well. On a genuine 1655 the 24-hour bezel is fixed to the case and does not turn. If the bezel rotates, the watch is not a 1655.
Then check these points in order:
- Fixed steel bezel. Engraved 24-hour numerals, no ratcheting, no click.
- Case and lugs. 39mm across, drilled lugs on early examples, crown guards with a soft profile that aftermarket cases often get wrong.
- 24-hour hand. Orange, with a broad arrow head. Replacement and service hands sit slightly different in shape and color.
- Dial printing. Coronet, "ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL," "EXPLORER II," and chronometer text. Font weight and spacing change across dial marks and should match the serial range.
- Lume. Tritium plots that aged to a warm tone, with hands that match the dial. Fresh, glowing lume on a 1970s watch is a red flag.
- Crystal and date. Plexi crystal. The 1655 does not have the date magnifier used on later Explorer II references.
- Movement. Caliber 1575, the same base used in the GMT-Master of the era. Photos of the movement are the single best proof of authenticity, so ask for them.
- Bracelet. Rivet Oyster 7206 with 80 end links on early watches, folded-link 7836 on later ones.
- Engravings. Reference 1655 and the serial stamped between the lugs, with a case back that matches the production period.
Beware of franken watches. Many watches sold as "fake 1655s" are genuine mid-cases fitted with aftermarket dials, hands, bezels, and bracelets. Those pass a case inspection and fail a dial inspection, which is why you compare every part against known examples rather than checking one detail.
What Are the Risks of Buying a Fake 1655?
A counterfeit looks like a bargain until something goes wrong. The gaps between a fake and a real watch show up in service, safety, and resale.
- No service support. Rolex service centers refuse counterfeit watches and will not supply parts for them. Independent watchmakers may decline the job too.
- Unknown water resistance. Case gaskets on cheap copies are often missing or the wrong size, so a splash can ruin the movement.
- Materials. Plated brass cases and nickel-rich alloys can irritate skin and wear through in months.
- Resale value near zero. You cannot sell a counterfeit as a genuine watch, and selling it as a replica is still trademark infringement.
- Shipping seizures. US Customs and Border Protection can seize counterfeit shipments at the port.
- Seller fraud. Many replica sites take payment and ship nothing, or harvest card details. There is no chargeback protection once a site disappears.
What Should You Buy Instead?
If the orange hand and the 24-hour bezel are what you want, several legitimate options deliver the same function.
- Rolex Explorer II 16570. The later reference has the same layout, a sapphire crystal, and prices well below a 1655.
- Rolex Explorer II 226570. Current production, 42mm, full warranty and service support.
- Tudor Black Bay Pro. 39mm, fixed 24-hour bezel, GMT hand, and a real service network.
- Seiko 5 Sports GMT and microbrand GMTs. Affordable, honest watches that copy nothing.
FAQ
Is the 1655 the "Steve McQueen" Explorer II?
That is the collector nickname, not a Rolex name. There is no confirmed photo of McQueen wearing a reference 1655, and Rolex has never marketed the watch that way.
What does a real 1655 cost?
Most clean examples trade in the five-figure range, and early dial variants or rare prototypes reach six figures at auction. Condition, dial mark, and original parts drive the number.
Are replica 1655s legal to buy?
US law targets sellers and importers. Customs can seize counterfeit goods, and any sale of a fake watch is trademark infringement. Buying one carries risk with no legal protection if the deal goes wrong.
Do good replica 1655s exist?
Copies of the 1655 exist, but they sit on generic cases with generic movements, so the case profile, bezel font, and hand shape rarely match a real one. None are licensed, and none can be serviced by Rolex.
The Short Version
The quickest test for a fake Rolex Explorer 2 1655 is the bezel: a real one is fixed and never turns. After that, the dial, hands, bracelet, and movement photos decide the answer. If a seller cannot show the movement or refuses an inspection by a watchmaker, walk away.