A replica Rolex 16610LV is a copy of the green bezel Submariner that Rolex introduced in 2003 for the model's 50th anniversary. The best versions get three things right: the case profile, the green of the bezel insert, and the movement inside. Once those pass, the rest is detail checking on the dial, the bracelet, and the date window.
This guide covers what the 16610LV actually is, which parts a replica has to match, and how to judge a listing before you pay.
What the 16610LV Is
The 16610LV is a stainless steel Submariner Date with a black dial and a green aluminum bezel insert. Collectors call it the Kermit. It shares the 40mm case and 300m depth rating of the standard 16610, but it uses larger lume plots on the dial, a look often called a maxi dial. The bezel insert is anodized aluminum, not ceramic, so the color sits flat rather than glossy.
That last point matters for replicas. A ceramic style insert on a 16610LV build is an instant giveaway, since the original never had one.
The Details a Replica Has to Match
- Case profile: 40mm diameter with crown guards that taper into the lugs without a sharp shelf.
- Bezel insert: green with a fine grain, and numerals that are engraved and filled rather than printed thick.
- Dial: maxi lume plots, white gold style surrounds, and a date window with correct magnification under the cyclops.
- Hands: Mercedes style hour hand, and a seconds hand with a properly sized lollipop and counterweight.
- Bracelet: Oyster style with solid end links that sit flush against the case, with no visible gaps.
- Lume: hands and plots that glow the same color and fade at the same rate.
Movement Options in a Replica
Most 16610LV replicas fall into three movement groups.
- Budget automatic clones, often a low grade 2813. They run, but the sweep is choppy and the crown position can sit off.
- ETA style clones such as the 2824 or 2836. Smooth sweep, easy to service at most watchmakers, and often the best value.
- Rolex style 3135 clones. Correct crown height and date flip direction, closer hand stack, but service is harder and parts cost more.
Ask which movement is inside before you buy. A seller who cannot answer that question is not a seller worth using.
Flaws That Show Up Most Often
Bezel color is the usual weak point. Early batches lean toward a yellow olive green, while the original reads deeper and cooler. Font weight on the insert is next, since thin numerals stand out in photos. Then come the cyclops magnification, the date font, and gaps between the end links and the case.
How to Read a Seller Listing
- Macro photos of the bezel, dial, and case flanks, not just full front shots.
- A short video showing the sweep and the date change.
- A clear statement of movement type and case material.
- A return window long enough to inspect the watch in person.
- Payment methods with buyer protection rather than direct transfer only.
Before You Order
Write down the three details you care about most, then check each one against the listing photos. If two of the three fail, walk away, since a swap later usually costs more than finding a better build now. Keep in mind that selling counterfeit branded watches is restricted in many countries, so check the rules where you live before buying or reselling.